Fashion Week in Moscow, October 19th, Day 5
The final day of this season in Moscow presented an extremely eclectic selection of collections - from casualwear from such online retail giants as La Redoute and Russian independent brands like Kruzhok, all the way to guest collections from China and a mesmerizing conceptual finale.
New York, NY (PRUnderground) October 22nd, 2019
PRESENTATION | Sergey Soroka x On Course
Before 2016, designer Sergey Soroka focused on menswear, and maybe, that is why most of the looks in the new collection featured austere lines, masculine shapes, and a basic pallet of colors with prevailing black and white combinations, as well as dark blue and dark grey shades. However, even masculine shapes the designer manages to charge with feminine vibration.
LA REDOUTE (Main collection / collaboration with Christelle Kocher) (France)
This special presentation of the French online retailer was packed with guests – a testament to its popularity here in Russia. Christelle Kocher is the founder of the Koché label, a graduate of Central Saint Martins and an alumni of such brands as Martine Sitbon, Emporio Armani, Sonia Rykiel and Dries Van Noten. The overarching idea behind this collab was creating a wardrobe for every day that re-interprets the classic pieces of Koché, in a casual sportswear spirit. A femininity that mixes couture and streetwear.
GLOBAL TALENTS: LEAF XIA (China)
Leaf Xia has been named Fashion Scout’s SS16 “Ones to Watch “, receiving a sponsored catwalk show and exhibition during London Fashion Week in 2015. The success of her first collection, saw Xia gain notable attention, her clothing published in Vogue, Glamour, etc.
Rounding off this very playful and pretty collection was an assortment of wool coats in deep blue, all finished off with more applique work of planets, animals and symbols. glo brand, supporting Global Talents.
Having started life in 2015 as a photojournal documenting the evolution of Russian underground culture, Stas Falkov’s Kruzhok completed its transformation into fully-fledged streetwear brand in late 2017.
This collection was not for the faint of heart – mostly dark, techwear and industrial garments in a color palette of dirty greens and greys, with a definite Tarkovsky’s “Stalker”/amphibian vibe.
Nastya Nekrasova is a fashion brand founded in 2017. Her collections are created with great attention to detail and with an emphasis on tailoring and an eclectic use of materials and custom developed fabrics.
This new collection, deconstructed and handmade, felt like a bold experimentation with menswear and womenswear.
“Crazy clothes with an idea” is the ultimate concept behind the brand – a theme that reveals itself more and more clearly with each new collection. Roman Uvarov considers deconstruction to be his main method. He is also inclined towards capturing a sense of playfulness in his work.
This time he has set his sight on Roma culture, specifically the Roma wedding ceremonies – all gold, opulence and richest, the most vivid of colors, the most wild designs.
Product of imitation
Product of Imitation is a practical yet conceptual brand created by Russian designer Anton Galetsky with Elena Vitebskaia.
This time they seemed to create a timewarp into the 1980’s, starting off with white leather bolero jackets with matching dresses. A strong Soviet 70’s influence followed – silk jumpsuits and powertrip pantsuits from the 80’s.
To the vivacious singing by Alla Pugachyova “I’ve been waiting for you for so long”, at the curtain of the catwalk talking couples appeared – and this was the start of the show. The SERGEY SYSOEV brand uses the dandyism concept and tries it in the today’s context.
PERFOMANCE | Tigran Avetisyan
Finishing this season off was a presentation by Tigran Avetisyan – a Moscow-based designer with a background in product design. After graduating from Central Saint Martins, he received a LVMH grant to produce his graduate collection. His work is heavily conceptual and explores the nature of fashion garments as marketed commodities.
This was an apogee of sorts for the fashion industry for Avetisyan. A bare runway, all-white, with five or six vaguely human-shaped cubical sculptures.
An incredible conceptualization of the runway, a philosophical art object and a groundbreaking finale for a varied and a truly international fashion week. glo brand, supporting Tigran Avetisyan.
The title partner of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia is Mercedes-Benz.
MBFW Russia partners: Aizel.ru (Official Partner), glo (Official Partner), Mary Kay (Official Make-Up Artist), MONÉ PROFESSIONAL (Official Style Artist), DHL (Official Logistics Partner), Sardinia (Official Partner), Metropol (Official Hotel).