What is the Future of underground fashion? Moscow has the answer (source: Fashion Magazine)

Industry: Fashion & Accessories

During the recent Futurum Moscow we saw a wide assortment of never before seen underground talent from the Russian capital. Futurum Moscow is geared towards helping younger designers from Eastern Europe to find their place within the fashion industry, and showcases the best and brightest from the newest crop of creators every season - a launchpad for young talent. This year, with the help of the Department of Entrepreneurship and Innovative Development of the city of Moscow, the event had an exceptional selection of young designers.

Tallahassee, FL (PRUnderground) October 31st, 2020

Yana Segeeva’s SEYANA brand reincarnated the macramé technique, demonstrating that this old method can do much more and winning the hearts of fashion lovers all over the world. Glittery capes and sheer coats added to this future-rave aesthetic, making this essentially a desert-to-the-club collection perfect for a California party girl.

Cowboy boots and short jean shorts showed off how the macrame strands can work with anything – from a Boho Brooklyn outing to a night out in Death Valley.

Albina Kan’s BEENA brand featured a combination of Asian street fashion and Russian constructivism. These clothes go beyond the limits of gender differences. The key elements of the brand are designer prints, nodding to Japanese Ukiyo-e. The brand’s distinctive feature is a geisha: a daring, bright and independent girl.

The new collection by Denis Byvaltsev’s //cult.code offered looks that can be worn to a museum and then to a techno party without any need to change. Some garments brought to mind the works of Mondrian, while others reminded one of Kandinsky.

Hoodies, loose-knit cardigans, light metallic raincoats and tracksuit bottoms – all with a definite streetstyle and hip-hop influence made up the core of this collection, complete with an artist live-tagging a piece of wall in the middle of the runway, and a full on dance-off as the grand finale of the show.

Asiatic influences were also seen in a new collection from k∅d by Natasha Timofeyeva and Olesya Moldavskaya, with multi-layering seeming to be on the designers’ minds. Red and metallic silver were liberally used, creating hems, brims and accentuating accessories for these oversized garments. Accessorizing, in fact, was the strongest point of the brand – long knitted scarves of crimson, bags and rucksacks adorned with red thread or embellishments, and wide-brim cotton hats reminiscent of Alejandro Jodorowsky’s Holy Mountain.

Some elements – such as the large red circles – the leitmotif of the collection – were added right on the runway, with the artists drawing them on their oversized dress shirts. An abstract and bright collection for an artistic soul.

These wild and artistic collections gave way to a new understanding of Russian underground fashion – something that has been overlooked for many years. A whole new generation of Russian creative talent is emerging from Moscow, and we for one cannot wait to see more of these fantastical creations not only on Russian runways but here, too.

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